Experience the best of Japan in winter with 15 unforgettable days. This journey will take you from iconic destinations like Tokyo, Mount Fuji, and Kyoto to lesser-known treasures in Nagano Prefecture and the beautiful island of Hokkaido. Along the way, you’ll watch snow monkeys relaxing in natural hot springs, soak in soothing onsens, stroll through historic post towns, and enjoy world-class skiing.
Japan had been at the top our list of places we wanted to visit for a long time and it is now back at the top of our list of places we want to return to. It is truly a special and unique place. From the way it embraces the future while preserving its past, to the best food you will ever eat no matter if it’s a Michelin star restaurant or a hole in the wall, and the phenomenon of Kawaii culture that celebrates cuteness for absolutely everything. We fell in love with Japan.
We’ve provided a summary of our route and itinerary in this guide below, as well as a detailed day-by-day description to give you an idea of how we spent our time. The itinerary incorporates travelling by train, plane, bus, and car rental to more remote areas and it can be adjusted to fit your schedule, so you can explore Japan at your own pace. If you’re visiting during another season, rest assured, many of these destinations shine year-round with their own seasonal charm.
We’ve also put together this helpful guide that outlines everything you need to know to visit Japan in winter, from what to expect during the season, how to get around, must-try winter activities and essential practical tips.
Japan in winter: Route and itinerary summary
This circular route begins in Tokyo, then takes you to Mount Fuji via train. It then heads north to Shibu Onsen via car and back down through the Kiso Valley where you can take a train to Kyoto from Nakatsugawa. You can then catch a short flight from Osaka (near Kyoto) to Sapporo on the island of Hokkaido. Finally fly back to Tokyo to end your trip.
Day 1-2: Tokyo
Day 3: Mount Fuji and Fuji Five Lakes
Day 4: Mount Fuji and Snow Monkeys
Day 5: Togakushi Shrine and Shibu Onsen
Day 6: Matsumoto Castle and Kiso Valley
Day 7: Kyoto
Day 8: Nara and Kyoto
Day 9-14: Niseko
Day 15: Tokyo
How to travel around Japan in winter
Japan’s transportation system is world-class, making it easy to explore, even in winter. Here are your main options:
Trains:
The Shinkansen (bullet trains) is the fastest and most convenient way to travel between cities. Regional trains also connect smaller towns. In Tokyo, there is a very efficient subway which makes it easy to travel around the city.
Foreign tourists, can buy a Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) which allows unlimited travel across the Japan Rail (JR) network. This includes Shinkansen trains, limited express, rapid and local trains. It’s worth noting that the pass does not cover all of Tokyo’s subway lines, however, it does include the Yamanote circular train which passes through 30 of Tokyo’s main tourist areas, including Akihabara, Shibuya, Harajuku, and Shinjuku. It also covers the Tokyo Monorail to/from Haneda Airport. The JR Pass costs:
- Regular 7 days: 50,000 yen
- Regular 14 days 80,000 yen
In October 2023, the price of the pass increased by up to 70% making it not as affordable as it once was. Due to this, we recommend evaluating how much you will use the JR Pass across your trip – if you are not planning to take that many trains, or also plan to drive or take a bus, then it might not be worth buying the pass and instead it may be more cost effective to buy single train tickets. This is what we did for this itinerary.
Further information on the JR Pass can be found here.
Buses:
Buses are particularly useful for reaching ski resorts and remote areas. Many are equipped for winter travel and are an affordable alternative to trains.
For travelling to Niseko from Sapporo airport, we used Hokkaido Resort Liner.
Driving:
Renting a car provides flexibility, especially for exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations. You can rent a car across Japan. We used Toyota Rent-a-Car and had no problems. Keep these tips in mind:
- In winter you will need to ensure the car is equipped with winter tyres. Many car rental services will already have winter tyres on their cars, however, if you are renting a car from Tokyo or Kyoto, most cars are not usually rented with winter tyres.
- Most road signs are in Japanese, so if you don’t understand the language then you will need to use a GPS or download offline maps (Google Maps works well for this).
- If you don’t hold a Japanese driver’s licence, make sure to bring an international driver’s permit.
Day 1 and 2: Tokyo
We kicked off our first day in Japan with a full day exploring the eclectic sights of Tokyo. We began at the tranquil Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine tucked within a peaceful garden and dense forest that feels worlds away from the city’s bustle. We spent about an hour strolling through the shrine complex.
From Meiji Jingu, we walked south to Harajuku, a lively neighbourhood famous for its art, fashion, and quirky animal cafes. We checked out the vintage clothing and cosplay stores, as well as the more unique shops that are packed with capsule vending machines. We then headed to café for a coffee and a cuddle with a micro pig. There are animal cafes all over Tokyo, nearly every street seemed to have a cat cafe, but in Harajuku you can find cafes that host a range of animals include owls, capybaras, hedgehogs and otters. We’re not sure how humane they all are, so do a bit of research before you go.
Next, we made our way to Shibuya, home of the iconic Shibuya Scramble Crossing, where the energy of Tokyo truly comes alive.
As the day wound down, we hopped on the Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, a vibrant district aglow with neon lights. For dinner, we wandered to Omoide Yokocho, where tiny alleyways are lined with cozy, casual eateries serving up delicious local dishes. Later, we headed to Golden-Gai, a maze of narrow streets where intimate bars and taverns open their doors, making it the perfect spot to cap off our first day in Japan.
Night 1: Tokyo
We spent our second day further soaking up the vibrant sights, sounds, and tastes of Tokyo. We started with an early morning trip to Tsukiji Outer Market, where we indulged in a variety of breakfast treats including the best fluffy egg omelette (Tamago) and strawberry mochi we’ve ever had and to this day are still talking about. Arriving before 8am to the market will give you a chance to explore the stalls before the main crowds arrive.
Next, we took the subway and headed to Asakusa, a district known for its “old Tokyo” atmosphere and probably our favourite area in Tokyo. We wandered along Nakamise-dori Street, lined with traditional craft shops and street food vendors where we picked up some souvenirs. Just steps away, we explored Senso-ji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest and most revered Buddhist temple with beautiful Japanese gardens.
From Asakusa, we walked to Kappabashi, Tokyo’s kitchenware mecca, where we browsed shops selling traditional Japanese tools, including renowned knives and cookware that make excellent gifts or keepsakes.
Later that day, we took the subway to Akihabara. This is Tokyo’s futuristic shopping district famous for electronics, anime, and manga. We explored the streets and wandered into some of the multi-level storey buildings, where each floor contains something different – vintage arcade games, comic book collectables, cosplay and photo booths. Honestly, you could spend hours in one of these buildings.
In the evening, we headed to Roppongi, an upscale district known for its dining and nightlife scene, where we treated ourselves to a memorable sushi dinner at one of the area’s many stylish restaurants.
Night 2: Tokyo
Day 3: Mount Fuji and Fuji Five Lakes
We started our day bright and early by taking the Chuo Line train from Shinjuku Station to Otsuki Station, on the outskirts of Tokyo. This is where our road trip began. We picked up a rental car right across from the station at Toyota Rent-A-Car and headed on towards Mount Fuji.
(This itinerary includes a four-day car rental with a different drop-off location. If you don’t hold a Japanese driver’s license, make sure to bring an international driver’s permit. And if you’re traveling in winter, remember to request winter tires—snowy roads are common in this area. The reason we recommend hiring a car from Otsuki Station is because it’s located in Yamanashi Prefecture rather than Tokyo. In winter, rental cars in Yamanashi typically come equipped with snow tires as standard, while rentals from Tokyo, even in convenient locations like Shinjuku, risk coming without winter tires).
We spent the day exploring the Fuji Five Lakes area stopping at Lake Kawaguchi, Saiko, Shoji, and Motosu. Each lake offers its own unique perspective of the impressive Mount Fuji. We enjoyed the freedom of exploring at own pace with the car, capturing views of Fuji from every angle.
Night 3: Kawaguchiko.
Day 4: Mount Fuji and Snow Monkeys
We were up at sunrise for a quick 10-minute drive from Kawaguchiko to Chureito Pagoda. Perched on a mountainside, this five-storied pagoda offers one of the most iconic views in Japan, with Mount Fuji towering majestically behind and Fujiyoshida City spread out below. Arriving early ensures a peaceful visit, as the area fills up quickly by 8am.
Once we had soaked up the stunning views, set off on a scenic 3-3.5 hour drive to Shibu Onsen in Nagano Prefecture. This charming hot spring town has been a haven for relaxation for over 1,300 years and is also home to the famous snow monkeys. After checking into our hotel in Shibu Onsen, we made our way to the monkeys located on the outskirts of town in Jigokudani Monkey Park. We spent the entire afternoon watching the snow monkeys keep warm in the park’s thermal pools. It was one of our favourite parts of the trip. If you want to find out more about visiting the snow monkeys, we’ve put together this guide that covers how to get there, what to expect and more.
To end our day, and to warm up after spending hours in the freezing cold with the monkeys, we took a blissful soak in the onsen at our hotel. Shibu Onsen also has a public onsen which can be used by visitors.
Night 4: Shibu Onsen
Day 5: Togakushi Shrine and Shibu Onsen
This morning, we set out for an hour’s drive to the mystical Togakushi Shrine, nestled deep in nature and the forested mountains. Togakushi Shrine is made up of three distinct shrines—lower, middle, and upper—all hidden among towering ancient cedars that lend the area a peaceful, almost magical feel. If you’re visiting in winter, be prepared as the paths are often blanketed in deep snow, so waterproof boots are a must for this adventure.
After exploring the shrines, we warmed up with a lunch at one of the nearby restaurants famous for Togakushi’s specialty: soba noodles.
In the afternoon, we returned to Shibu Onsen. We strolled through this historic thermal town, admiring the traditional wooden buildings and quaint craft shops that line its narrow streets and picked up a few more souvenirs.
That evening we took the opportunity to relax again in the onsen at our hotel.
Night 5: Shibu Onsen
Day 6: Matsumoto castle and kiso valley
This day, we travelled back south through Nagano Prefecture towards Kyoto, stopping at many places along the way. Our first stop, just over an hour away from Shibu Onsen, was Matsumoto Castle. This is a magnificent structure recognised as a ‘national treasure of Japan.’ As the oldest surviving castle tower in the country, its black-and-white façade set against the mountains is a sight you won’t forget. You can visit the grounds and inside of the castle for a fee but we decided to admire it from the outside.
After exploring Matsumoto Castle, we hit the road toward the enchanting Kiso Valley. Here, the Edo Period lives on in the traditional post towns of Narai-juku, Tsumago, and Magome. Each town feels like stepping back in time, with wooden buildings housing cozy cafes, charming restaurants, and artisan shops offering unique local crafts. This is the perfect place to wander, sip on tea, and pick up unique souvenirs that capture the spirit of old Japan. We loved exploring these old towns.
Once we had soaked up the valley’s beauty, we drove onward to Nakatsugawa, where we dropped off the car and hopped on a train to Nagoya. At Nagoya we transferred to the sleek shinkansen (bullet train) bound for Kyoto. Before getting on we grabbed a bento box at Nagoya Station for dinner. Bento boxes are a must try when you’re in Japan – they are basically lunch boxes filled with lots of different treats.
The train takes just over 30 minutes to reach Kyoto. We checked into our hotel, ready to explore Kyoto the next day.
Night 6: Kyoto
Day 7: Kyoto
Our first full day in Kyoto, we woke up early to enjoy the city’s treasures before the crowds arrived. We first headed to Gion, Kyoto’s renowned geisha district and strolled down the narrow streets lined with traditional wooden machiya houses.
From Gion, we made our way to Kiyomizu-dera Temple, a breathtaking Buddhist temple perched on a hillside. The temple’s massive wooden terrace offers sweeping views of Kyoto.
Next, we caught an Uber over to Kinkaku-ji, the famous Golden Pavilion. This zen temple is covered in gold leaf and surrounded by tranquil gardens with a reflecting pond that glows in the early light.
From here, we got another Uber to Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple. This hidden gem is home to 8,000 stone statues, each dedicated to a departed soul without family. The temple’s quiet grounds and haunting beauty offer a contemplative moment within Kyoto’s busier sights.
We continued on by foot through the quiet residential streets and on to the enchanting Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, where paths wind through towering bamboo stalks.
Late afternoon, we visited Nishiki Market, Kyoto’s vibrant street-food market, where we sampled an array of local delights, from fresh seafood to sweets and savoury bites. We filled ourselves up at the market but if you are looking for another dinner option, close by is Pontocho Alley. This is a lively, narrow street brimming with restaurants and bars. This atmospheric alley, lined with intimate dining spots, offers everything from traditional Japanese dishes to modern fusion cuisine.
Night 7: Kyoto
Day 8: Nara and Kyoto
An early start at Kyoto Station and we were heading for an enchanting half-day trip to Nara, Japan’s ancient capital. In Nara we visited the grounds of Todai-ji Temple, where a 15-meter bronze Buddha sits majestically within a grand wooden hall. The temple’s peaceful aura is mesmerizing, but the deer are what bring thousands of tourists to Nara. These charming creatures roam freely around Todai-ji and Nara Park, often bowing politely in exchange for special deer crackers, sold by local vendors. Feeding these somewhat gentle (some also bite), bowing animals is a unique experience.
At midday, we headed back to Kyoto for a visit to Fushimi Inari Shrine, one of Japan’s most iconic sights. This shrine dedicated to the Shinto god of rice, Inari, is known for its thousands of striking vermilion torii gates that form a picturesque pathway through the forested trails of Mount Inari. We wandered the paths under the gates and took in the atmosphere of this sacred mountain.
Later that afternoon, we treated ourselves to a traditional Japanese tea ceremony.
That evening we caught a bus to Osaka airport for a comfortable night’s rest ahead of an early flight to Sapporo.
Night 8: Kyoto or near Osaka airport
Day 9-14: Niseko
For days 9 to 14, we headed to Japan’s northern island: Hokkaido. We flew into the domestic terminal at Sapporo, then took a pre-booked bus straight to our ski resort.
We chose to stay at Niseko-Annupuri for five full days of skiing, and it was undoubtedly the best skiing experience we’ve ever had. Niseko-Annupuri, part of the world-famous Niseko resort area, is known for its stunning views of Mount Yotei and consistently excellent powder snow. The resort offers a mix of terrain suitable for all levels, from gentle slopes for beginners to thrilling runs for advanced skiers.
Annupuri is particularly famous for its laid-back atmosphere compared to other parts of Niseko, making it a perfect spot for those seeking a quieter and more relaxed vibe after a day on the slopes. The resort is less crowded, giving you more space to enjoy the slopes. With that said, the other parts of Niseko are readily accessed via the chair lifts.
We spent our days skiing ridiculous amounts of fresh powder, stopping every now and then for a warm bowl of ramen or other delicious food in the mountain huts.
Night 9-15: Niseko
Day 15: Tokyo
We left Hokkaido and headed back to Tokyo, where we had one final evening to enjoy the city again before our flight home the following day.
